Caulking and sealants: the cheapest fix a stucco wall can get
Weather dries caulking out until it stops working, and then water sneaks behind the stucco and the blistering starts. Replacing the sealant at windows, doors, expansion joints and penetrations before that happens costs a fraction of the repair that follows. Many of the walls we are called to repair were never caulked at all.
Owners and managers of any stucco or EIFS building more than a few years old, and anyone with cracked or missing caulking. What you get
Every joint cut out, cleaned, backed and resealed with a sealant made for the system, tooled so it sheds water. Where
Toronto, Mississauga, Vaughan, Oakville and the rest of the GTA. 4.933 Google reviews
How a sealant joint is done properly
A bead squeezed over the old one fails in a season. A proper joint takes five steps.
- Remove the old sealant
Cut out completely, down to clean substrate on both sides.
- Clean and prime
Dust, chalk and old residue removed. Primer where the sealant manufacturer requires it on the finish or the frame.
- Backer rod
A foam rod set in the joint to the right depth, so the sealant has the shape it needs to stretch.
- The sealant
A low-modulus sealant compatible with EIFS finishes and the window frame, which most hardware-store caulking is not.
- Tooling
Pressed into the joint and shaped so it sheds water and bonds to both sides, not to the back.
The joints that matter on a stucco building
The perimeter of every frame. The most common leak on any house.
Vertical and horizontal joints in large walls that let the building move.
Hose bibs, vents, light fixtures, cables, meter boxes and railings fastened through the wall.
Where stucco meets stone, brick, siding, roofing, decks and grade.
Sealants on a schedule
On a house, a sealant check every spring and a full replacement when the joints start to fail keeps the wall dry for its whole life. On a managed building the same logic scales: we survey the joints, replace the ones that have failed, and give you a written note of what to expect and when, so the next round goes in the budget instead of arriving as a leak.
The joint is the whole job. Sealant tooled into a clean, backed joint stretches and recovers through every freeze and thaw for years. A bead run over dirt and old caulking lets go in the first winter, which is why we remove everything first even when it takes longer.
What moves the number on sealant work
Every job is quoted after we see the wall. These are the things that move the number.
- Linear footage
Measured joint by joint at the visit.
- Height and access
Ground-floor joints by hand; upper floors from a lift or scaffold.
- Removal
Old sealant that comes out cleanly is quick. Hardened or multiple layers take longer.
- Joint width
Wide joints take more backer and sealant.
- Repairs alongside
Blisters under failed joints are quoted as repairs.
Send a photo of the wall
Lars calls back to book the free site visit, usually within a day. Then one price in writing.
Send a photo or call
Free site visit
One price in writing
What our customers say
Caulking and sealants questions
How often should stucco caulking be replaced?
Inspect it every spring. Good sealant lasts many years; the cheap caulking some installers used lasts two or three. Replace it when it cracks, shrinks or pulls away.
Can I caulk it myself?
You can, but most hardware-store caulking is not compatible with EIFS finishes and fails fast. The joint also needs backer rod and the right shape. A proper job once beats a tube a year.
Does new caulking fix blisters?
No. It stops new water getting in. Existing blisters are repaired separately. See stucco repair.
Do you do sealant work on commercial buildings?
Yes, including plazas and condos from lifts, scheduled around tenants.
Is the work insured and warrantied?
Yes. Stucco & Co carries $5 million liability insurance and WSIB coverage, and every job comes with a one-year warranty on our work.